Edinburgh at Christmas can be wonderful, but it can also be crowded, noisy and a little bit tacky if you head for the wrong places. So this is my pick of the things I think are genuinely worth your time this year: a few treats, some proper theatre, the best of the light trails, and the things you can enjoy without spending a penny.
Festive treats and evenings out
Festive afternoon tea at Prestonfield
Nowhere does Christmas quite like Prestonfield. Roaring log fires, sumptuous historic rooms and a proper festive afternoon tea with a glass of Billecart-Salmon champagne. Served from November, £80 per person, or £95 for the champagne afternoon tea. Book well ahead. Find out more.
The Nutcracker Suite by candlelight, St Giles' Cathedral – 28 November and 11 December
Tchaikovsky's Nutcracker Suite and Rachmaninov's Piano Concerto No. 2, played by candlelight in St Giles' on the Royal Mile. A lovely, grown-up way to start the season. Find out more.
Carols by Candlelight, Stockbridge Parish Church – 18 and 19 December
Opera Caledonia's soprano Juliet Montgomery sings everyone's favourite carols and Christmas songs, with mince pies and mulled wine included. Very Stockbridge, very civilised, and a welcome escape from the Christmas shopping crowds. Find out more.
Light trails
Christmas at the Botanics – 19 November to 30 December
This year marks the trail's tenth anniversary at the Royal Botanic Garden. The Christmas Cathedral and the Fire Garden are back, alongside new installations that bring illustrations from the Garden's archive to life. Lovely with children, and just as good as a romantic evening for two. Peak dates sell out, so book early. Find out more.
Giant Lanterns at Edinburgh Zoo – 13 November to 21 February
This year's theme is a space safari, with hundreds of hand-crafted lanterns lighting a mile-long trail. It's a family favourite, but look out for the adult-only evening and the quiet nights if you'd like a calmer visit. Find out more.
Castle of Light, Edinburgh Castle – dates to be announced
Projections and light installations transform the castle after dark, with some of the best night-time views of the city from the ramparts. Last year it ran on Fridays and Saturdays from late November to early January. Find out more.
Days out
Hopetoun House Christmas Shopping Fair, near South Queensferry – 27 to 29 November
The most utterly magical Christmas market, I love this one. The house is lit up as you come down the long drive, and inside, stalls are tucked into huge rooms with roaring fires and old artworks. It's always busy, so pick your timing and book ahead. Find out more.
Christmas at Jupiter Artland – dates to be announced
The sculpture park outside Edinburgh goes festive in December. Last year there was a Christmas fair of Scottish makers, choirs, a live Nativity, a s'mores village and a Christmas tree farm. A really special day out. Find out more.
Panto and Christmas theatre
The Adventures of Pinocchio, King's Theatre – 28 November to 17 January
It's back! After five years away, the King's panto returns home to the beautifully refurbished theatre, with Allan Stewart, Grant Stott and Jordan Young leading the cast. The story has even been rewritten around the reopening, with Geppetto and Pinocchio trying to raise the money to save their beloved King's Theatre. Find out more.
A Christmas Carol, Royal Lyceum Theatre – 28 November to 3 January
The Lyceum doesn't do panto; it does Christmas plays, and does them beautifully. This year it's Dickens, set in the gas-lit streets of Victorian Edinburgh, with Stuart Bowman as Scrooge. Recommended for ages 7 and up. Find out more.
Edinburgh People's Theatre panto, Church Hill Theatre, Morningside – dates to be announced
A proper traditional panto from one of the city's oldest amateur companies, with a dame, a principal boy and baddies to boo. Tickets are traditionally far cheaper than the big shows, and it's a much-loved Morningside institution. Find out more.
Free things to do in Edinburgh at Christmas
Edinburgh's Christmas Kick Off Concert – 14 November
A free afternoon concert at the Ross Bandstand in West Princes Street Gardens to open the season. The bandstand hosts more community events through November and December, including a Light Night concert on 22 November and a St Andrew's Day ceilidh on 29 November. Find out more.
Lessons and Carols at St Giles' Cathedral – date to be announced
The cathedral choir's annual carol service, free with an optional donation. It's hugely popular, so book a seat as soon as tickets are released, or arrive early. Find out more.
The lights
The Christmas tree on the Mound and the lights along George Street cost nothing to enjoy. An after-dark wander from the Mound along George Street makes a lovely free evening.
Free galleries to warm up in
The Scottish National Gallery, right beside Princes Street Gardens, and the National Museum of Scotland are both free and perfect for thawing out between outdoor plans.
Two free markets
The Winter Market at the Scottish National Portrait Gallery (21 and 22 November) and Edinburgh Farmers' Market on Castle Terrace (every Saturday, 9am to 2pm) are both free to wander. You'll find more in my guide to the best Christmas markets in Scotland.
And if you're looking for gifts that bring the best of Scotland's independent makers together, have a look at my Christmas gift boxes.
