The road to get there is the highest in Scotland and has the steepest climb of any road in the UK (rising from sea level to 2.054 ft in just 3 miles). Hairpin bend after hairpin bend (one’s called ‘Devil’s Elbow’ which says it all).
So yes, that explains the end-of-the-line feel to the place. Frankly you’d be pleased with a burger van at the end of it, but you’ve got two treats in store. There’s the age-old and idyllic Applecross Inn, which is still going strong. This is the perfect summer’s evening spot, sitting outside on picnic tables overlooking the bay, drinking cold beer and eating fish and chips and freshly caught langoustines.
One trip during that first heady post-lockdown summer, a search for a much-heard-about white sandy beach resulted in a very exciting find. Not Boris, though yes, he was holidaying in the Old Schoolhouse just one mile up the coast and creating quite a buzz with the tourists and classic disinterest from the locals. Around the bay from the village is Applecross Walled Garden, the old kitchen garden for Applecross House, an interesting old pile set back from the water. To be fair, this eatery isn’t new, apparently it’s been here for years (not new at all then!) but better late than never.
It's a gorgeous spot. Husband and wife team Jon and Elaine Glover took on the garden back in 2001 and slowly coaxed it back to life. Go in the summer months and the place is an explosion of colour, dripping, trailing, blooming plants of all varieties. Veg for the kitchen garden, herbs everywhere, fruit trees, beautiful glass houses, interesting nooks and crannies to wander about and explore while you await your grub.
As you’d expect the food is spot on and everything is local when it can be. Stornoway black pud, smoked salmon from the Applecross Smoke House, local seafood, fruit and veg from the garden… If you’ve spent time eating out in the Highlands you’ll know it can be hard to find a gem like this. Too often it’s a burger and chips affair from the freezer. So to sit in this beautiful garden, surrounded by the lovely old walls, nestled in the hills, listening to the birdsong and eating really good food is a treat. One we’d almost navigate the Devil’s Elbow on a push-bike for.
